Here is a photo of three generations of Jamrogs, taken in Paradise Valley between Yellowstone NP and Livingston. I’m headed back to Maine tonight after two weeks there. When I landed there from Maine it was blowing strong and 33 degrees below zero. That’s not even close to a record low. I plan to go back for sure this summer but increasing drought and wildfires might happen. I thought Maine had rough weather!
We’re playing patsy with the smoke that rolled into Montana yesterday. Up until now, the skies have been relatively free of major particulate matter that would keep one inside, but this is a different scene.
I’ve completed (sometimes two) hikes every day since arriving here by Amtrak from Portland, Maine a week ago. Most of the hikes are within a 30-minute drive from Livingston, Montana.
Hiking in Montana and nearby Wyoming is different than in New England.
First- the elevation. Livingston sits at the same elevation ( 4,500”) as the adjacent Paradise Valley. The hikes here generally start in the Valley and ascend the various foothills creeks, canyons, and spurs that lead to the 10,000’ plus Rockies towering above.
My oldest son Lincoln and I summited 8,564’ Bunsen Peak (BP) in Yellowstone National Park yesterday. We were down by noon, with excellent views despite the increasingly smoky skies. Aftermaking good time getting to the top, I experienced some difficulty with breathing up that high.
I last hiked to the top of BP in October of 2005. It is a climb of 1,300 feet through forest and meadow to the switchback path to the summit (German chemist Robert Bunsen studied geysers and invented the Bunsen Burner). There we enjoyed panoramic views of the Blacktail Deer Plateau, Swan Lake Flat, the Gallatin Mountain Range, and the Yellowstone River Valley.
The return is via the same route. The parking lots are crowded, however, we only encountered a dozen hikers on the trail.
Grizzly bears frequent this area, so I carried a can of bear spray on my sternum strap.
In 2013, I was in the company my thru-hiking partners Wizard and Train when we were dropped off at the parking area of this trailhead as we were working our way along in the opposite direction on the Big Sky variant as we worked to complete our Continental Divide Trail thru-hikes.
The 670 mile Yellowstone River flows through the valley, which hosts several hot springs, including the world-famous Chico Hot Springs.
In 1806, Meriwether Lewis marched from the three forks of the Missouri River to put into the Yellowstone River at today’s Livingston. There are no major dams on the Yellowstone from its source in Yellowstone NP to its confluence with the Missouri River. Notable area residents include Russell Chatham (landscape artist), Jeff Bridges, Peter Fonda, Arthur Blank, and John Mayer.
The Gardiner gate of Yellowstone National Park is 52 miles south from Livingston on Route 89. My Senior Pass entitles me to free entrance for myself, the vehicle, and up to three passengers. Yellowstone is massive, containing 2.2 million acres. The last major fire moved through the park in 1988, burning through one-third of the land.
In addition to grizzly bears, the park is home to herds of antelope, bison, sheep, and elk. Wolves and wolverines also live within the borders. Where hiking in areas where grizzlies are active, I clip a can of bear spray onto the sternum strap of my day pack.
Rattlesnakes abound out here. In fact, I almost stepped on a timber rattler walking up the spine of a ridge in the Gallatin Range.
It was right in the trail, completely camouflaged, and began loudly rattling. I was in front at the time and leaped backward. Lincoln pointed to the side and yelled to Dish dog, “Go around! ”, which the dog did as it appears to understand most human commands. He grabbed the new puppy Deja and we got out of there. Hiking up was over.
The valley here is a high desert, which is characterized by plants that appear to spread their seeds via barbed casings that are capable of attaching to clothing and even went through the sides of trail runners. It may be that the best footwear for hiking here may be ankle-high leather boots, with long pants which would protect somewhat from rattlesnake strikes, pointy plants, and ankle-high jutting rocks.
It gets hot here but not uncomfortably so. While he thermometer hit 93 yesterday, the humidity was only 12 percent. I am much more able to move around outside here in the West than when it hits the 90’s in Maine. At those times, New England’s oppressive humidity tends to be that high as well.
If tomorrow is another one of these good days, and the smoke from the West coast is not too thick, we might just end up floating the Yellowstone River for half a day. There’s a big rubber raft waiting nearby.
I’m excited about returning to the Appalachian Trail for several days of backpacking. The last time I was on the AT was a couple of weeks ago, when I went up to the Bigelow Range with my saws, pruners, and axe to remove any obstructions on the Safford Brook Trail as well as a short section of the AT and cleaning up the Safford Notch campsite for summer use.
This time I am on my own to hike where I want, and I won’t be carrying any extra saws. I’m a member of a few hiking groups on FaceBook and one post suggested checking out a shorter hike of the AT between the Kennebec River and Monson. Over the 36 miles, there will be Pleasant Pond, Moxie Pond, and Bald Mountain Pond to swim in, a relatively brief ascent of Moxie Bald Mountain at 2,629 feet, and 17 miles of descent!
The last time I walked this section was in early September in 2007 when it took me three days to walk those 36 miles. Here are my Trailjournal Entries from 2017 of this same section. Since then I went on to thru-hike the PCT, CDT, The Long Trail, The East Coast Trail, the Fundy Footpath, and the Camino Portuguese.
I’ve scheduled a $70 one hour-one-way shuttle to Caratunk after I drop off my car at Shaw’s Hostel in Monson. I’ll walk from the Kennebec River some 36 miles northbound into Shaw’s where my car will be waiting for me.
Although I am in shape I won’t be trying for any speed records! As of today, I’ve logged 653 miles on my bikes, and 720 miles of hiking in 2020. My yearly goal is to amass 2020 miles combined, roughly half on foot and half on a bike.
I’ve been unemployed since March 19 due to Covid-19.
Since I have been home, I’ve focused on major renovations/construction projects at my Hobbs Pond camp, and at the house. I’ve finished an eight-sided office/writing retreat and installing a window, new side walls, and electricity in the camp loft.
Here at home I’ve just completed the removal of asphalt shingles and replacing two outbuildings with new metal roofing. The rest of my focus has been planting, weeding, watering, and harvesting vegetables.
I want to hike more and also return to completing my new book, which has 70 pages finished.
I went camping for three days last weekend in Vermont riding my Trek Stache 8.0 off-road on the world-class Kingdom Trails in East Burke VT. It was there that I accepted that my beloved tent, a Tarptent (Moment model) that Marcia bought me for a birthday present in 2013 is toast. It survived 165 days of all sorts of abuse on my CDT thru-hike plus subsequent years since then on my other backpacking trips. It has been sent back to Tarptent twice for repairs but the worn-out mosquito netting and the broken zipper and previous repairs just became too much for me to keep the wild stuff out so I have a brand new Tarptent on order, this time a markedly improved Double Rainbow model made out of Dyneema that packs tiny and weighs 1.7 pounds.
So, the weather window looks good so far for my backpacking adventure, this time surrounded by Covid-19. Monson is less than 90 miles from here, so I can fill up on gas locally and make the whole round trip without stopping. Normally, I like sleeping in the lean-tos on the AT but this time I’ll be tenting and wearing a mask in any close interactions with others.
Consider subscribing to this blog to stay posted for those upcoming daily trip reports.
It pays to buy lifetime gear, even if the initial purchase price is steep.
My first experience with paying more than $20 for a pair of socks was with Darn Tough, back before my 2013 thru-hike of the CDT. Since then, I have not bought many other socks and what I do buy comes with a lifetime warranty.
Here in Maine, We used to have the best warranty in the outdoor business at LL Bean’s but their original replace/refund warranty was watered down couple of years ago and has caused me to buy elsewhere since then.
LLBean’s current warranty: We stand behind all our products and are confident that they will perform as designed. If you are not 100% satisfied with one of our products, you may return it within one year of purchase for a refund. … After one year, we will consider any items for return that are defective due to materials or craftsmanship …
Here’s Darn Tough’s warranty: Our unconditional lifetime guarantee is simple. If our socks are not the most comfortable, durable and best fitting socks you have ever owned, return them for another pair. No strings. No conditions. Socks guaranteed for life.
What you see in the picture at the start of this post are five pair of brand new replacement socks I received this past week from three companies that currently offer the lifetime merino wool replacement deal: Darn Tough, Farm to Feet and Point 6. No arguments from these establishments about the return, and the only company that required me to send in the old ( washed, of course) worn socks was Darn Tough. Photos of the Point6 and Farm to Feet were sufficient to receive the replacements.
I have been criticized by readers of my book and my blogs that I mention brands too often. To be clear, I’ve bought all my backpacking socks. Actual brands and models matter to me. What holds up under heavy use is communicated to others.
A responsible company that backs its products and reduces its carbon footprint is Patagonia. Right now their new COVID-19 safety procedures have put off sending in repairs until further notice—but DIY repairs are available.
Lifetime socks are much more trailworthy that “normal” socks. One brand new pair of my hiking pal’s Columbia merino socks developed two holes the first day he wore them in the New Mexico desert. As an example, my two pair of Darn Tough Light Hikers survived the whole CDT. A carry one other pair , but that is reserved for wearing inside my sleeping bag. They protect my down bag from grime if and when I can’t wash my feet and also keep my feet warm when its cold.
So, I’ve got plenty fresh socks to choose from and am ready to head out for some actual backpacking in the next couple of weeks. I just have another metal roof to put on one of my outbuildings first.
Care for your feet! Blisters are not acceptable!
I’m all over it with presentations in the next four months:
Presentation title :9,000 Miles of Attitude: Aging and Endurance
From the ages of 57-63 Tom thru-hiked the Appalachian, Pacific Crest, and Continental Divide National Scenic Trails. He is a Maine Guide and is currently writing a new book about mental and physical conditioning and extending one’s ability to fully engage in outdoor recreation activities. For the past 25 years, Tom has been singing and playing accordion in King Pirogi, a four piece polka band. He plans to hike and bike exactly 2,020 miles in the coming calendar year. Tom grew up on a dairy farm. In 2014 Tom was the 230th recipient to be awarded the Triple Crown of Hiking award from the American Long Distance Hiking Association after thru-hiking of three of the USA’s longest National Scenic Trails. His first book, “In the Path of Young Bulls: An Odyssey on America’s Continental Divide Trail” was published in 2017. After retiring as a psychologist and mental health counselor in 2002 Tom has been guiding individuals and groups on four season adventures in the Northeastern US. His current interest is inspiring others to engage in wilderness adventures at any age.
Tom Jamrog, Maine Guide and Past President of the Maine Association of School Psychology, has over a half-century of experience exploring the outdoors. In 2014 Tom was awarded the Triple Crown of Hiking award from the American Long Distance Hiking Association for his thru-hikes of the Appalachian, Pacific Crest, and Continental Divide National Scenic Trails.
At the age of 63, Tom rose up out of retirement to assemble a team of 4 proven long distance backpackers who took on the daily challenge of walking over 2,500 miles over a 5 month span on the Continental Divide Trail. The book details the daily ups and down of life on the trail and also serves as a resource for section and long-distance hikers in planning their long distance adventures.
Attitudes, Actions and Apps: Lessons Learned from 9,000+ Backpacking Miles
Uncle Tom ( AT GA>ME, 2007) was awarded the Triple Crown of Hiking award in 2014. He published his first book “In the Path Of Young Bulls: An Odyssey on America’s Continental Divide Trail” in 2017. Tom will discuss his experiences and research from his upcoming book on endurance and essential training ( physical and mental) for long distance backpacking success. Topics will include gait analysis, pain management, recovery myths and facts, over- and under-hydration, and meditation.
Old Mill Conference Room, 215 Imboden St.
on Friday May 15 from 12:45-2:15 pm
You can also stop and chat with Tom at the Atlas (Guthook) Guides vendor booth, where he’s working for the weekend.
via–>>> Snowbound | Outside Online
Outside Online posted this excellent report, which includes three short Youtube videos taken shortly before the hiker, Stephen Olshansky, perished in 2015 at the end of his southbound thru- hike attempt in the Southern San Juans in New Mexico. “Otter” was an experienced long-distance hiker who died on the trail waiting rescue, despite having adequate food, and using a heated tent. I can relate to the dangers of that section of the CDT. In 2013, I was forced to bail out on the “official” CDT and take alternate forest roads in the San Juans in early June due to weather and excessive snow depths.
Otter’s death was similar in one aspect of the death of a hiker named Geraldine Largay, AKA Inchworm, who died on the Appalachian Trail in the summer of 2013, 26 days after she set up camp. Both hikers died less than 8 miles away from a highway, both patiently awaiting rescues that never came. Both hikers were without their own personal locator beacons.
For more stories of backpackers and day hikers who have fallen into the abyss where they experience multiple unfortunate mistakes in the wrong places and at the wrong times check out these two excellent books: Not Without Peril: 150 Years Of Misadventure On The Presidential Range Of New Hampshire Paperback – by 
and Desperate Steps: Life, Death, and Choices Made in the Mountains of the Northeast, by Peter Kick. 
Since Largay’s death, I’ve been using a satellite based communication device, and subscribe to the $12 a month charge.
It allows me to text messages via sattelite, so now the numerous areas I explore without cell coverage are not a problem. I’ve started packing it in my day pack. Who knows what might happen out there, where age is not our friend ?
As famous teacher once advised me, “Avert the suffering before it comes” .
Please considering commenting if yu do take the time to read and view the Outside Online material.
Hiking in Maine: Fascinating books about some treasured trails
Read Carey’s whole article here–> Hiking in Maine: Fascinating books about some treasured trails – mainetoday
“In the Path of Young Bulls: An Odyssey on America’s Continental Divide Trail.” By Thomas Jamrog, Maine Authors Publishing, 2017, 263 pages.
At a time in life when most men are happily easing into retirement, Tom Jamrog of Lincolnville took up long-distance hiking, tackling the Appalachian Trail and the Pacific Crest Trail. Satisfied but by no means sated, the then 63-year-old Jamrog sought the ultimate prize, the Continental Divide Trail. Jamrog’s story describes the desolate, brutal, expansive, majestic 3,000-mile journey, a monumental effort achieved in the company of hiking partners half his age. With palpable determination and commitment, Jamrog colorfully and honestly captures the highs and lows of thru-hiking through the Rocky Mountains from Mexico to Canada.
“
It’s now 2017. After reviewing all the end of the year” bests” lists and the sun ever so slowly extending itself into the far northeast corner of the USA , I’m ready and hopeful about what’s to come.
For one, I’m still able to embrace health and happiness. My body weight has remained around 200 pounds since I lost 27 pounds on my 2013 CDT thru hike. On prior hikes, I’ve gained it all back , but this time, I’ve been able to remain 15 pounds lighter.
Setting goals is my personal life raft. Without them, I would be a diminished individual. My spanking new goal for 2017 is to hike, walk, backpack, or bike a cumulative 2017 miles. It will be a figure that is easy to remember! With that number in place, I am generally out the door every day to put in at least an hour to an hour and a half on moderate to more activity.
I dumped my decades old gym membership in 2013 after I came back from the CDT. I went back to working out indoors but it didn’t feel right to drive a vehicle a half hour to change clothes and spend an hour inside a sweat factory where I did more talking than walking.
With this plan, I sometimes play catch-up. I had a work week last week that cut into my recreational daylight hours. Saturday morning brought me to a three hour hike in nearby Camden Hills State Park. We have not had much snow here. The ground is practically bare, however, there are ample stretches of compressed, hard, grey ice covering some of the hiking trails and single track that I travel on. Half of Saturdays hike was done on Stabilicers.
Fitbit helps.
Strava helps more.
If you are considering getting in ready shape for the upcoming hiking season then I’d suggest you also make your own grand plan with a mileage goal thrown in to keep you honest. I’d like to thank Carey Kish for getting me started on upping my Maine-based mileage. His 2015 Maineac Outdoors column inspired me. I’d recommend that you review my own blog post that conveys my start.
I boosted the whole shabang up a notch for 2016, aiming for 1,000 miles of walking as well as also a separate 1,000 mile biking. I was in for a nasty surprise this past Thanksgiving when I realized that I still had over 250 miles to cover on the bike before Dec. 31. Early snowfalls and some brutal single digit temps led me to sufferer through a few slushy bone chilling rides, but I made it.
I plan to amassing at least 100 bike miles a month from now until my birthday on March 27.
What about you? Ready for a mileage goal of 1,000 miles to invite you outside more? Who is in for a belated New year’s revolution or two?
You might not have to ride ice to get there.
Reblogging this 1/4/17 article from The Hiking Project!
Welcome to the low pay lives of some of the best hikers in the world!
I have hiked and sometimes camped with 5 of these 6 folks, on my 2010 PCT and 2013 CDT thru-hikes. They are all truly genuine individuals. Freebird told me that his goal every year that he thru hikes is to be the first person on and the last person off the trail.
Here is a pic of me and Billy Goat on Sept. 8, 2014 at the Millinocket Hannaford’s in when Billygoat was resupplying while he was providing car support for a buddy who was hiking the International AT from Katahdin to Quebec.
Read the whole article here–>>>The New Wisdom: 6 Long-Trail Legends Share Hard-Won Advice
Tom Jamrog's Weblog 