Day 10 East Coast Trail: roaring ocean soundtrack 

Roaring Cove Campsite to Long Will Campsite 38,900 steps via Fitbit. 

 14.5 miles 

    Dark and stormy skies opened the day. Today’s path was described by the map as “Difficult to strenuous” and the walking certainly reflected that. We made relatively good time from our campsite to the tiny first settlement of Brigus South which had nothing to offer us, even a roof to get under to get out of the light rain. 

 On we went to Cape Broyle, where we had an excellent lunch at the Riverside Restaurant and Lounge. I had a bowl of seafood chowder, a chef salad, rolls, coffee and pie. I also ordered a club sandwich to go, with a bag of chips, which set me up for a special dinner.  
    These ” community links” roads are sometimes long- this was was a road walk of over 3 miles, but after walking a third of it, we were picked up by a young fellow who was helping build a new house here. Hitching is easy now, folks around these parts recognize hikers.   

The path after Cape Broyle was hard, with relentless ups and downs as well as sections that were mini- quagmires of dark mud. 

Wet feet and socks went on all day again.   You get used to it. They dry out later only to get put back into wetness after a couple of hours of walking, no matter how careful I am at dodging the muck pits.   
In every one of my longer thru hikes I eventually get to the day when it appears the end is near. That day was today. Pulling out the remaining maps, I have 7 left, Maps #13-19. Total walking mileage without community links is a mere 30, or 50 kilometers. We have 5 days left here before flying out of St. John’s on Aug. 25. We reserved a room at Wild Roses B & B for the night of the 24th so that we can take advantage of being shuttled to the airport. We also missed a section to Cape Spear that we want to fit in on Aug. 23. BI and I agreed to try and make the 30 Miles of hiking in 2 days, leaving us an extra day to either complete that, or use it as part of finishing the Cape Spear path. I really enjoy trying to meet these logistical challenges , but only if it’s not stressful and obviously working against the tide, which has not been the case up here so far.

I’m set up on a tent platform tonight, with Bad Influence nested in his comfy hammock nearby.   He has applied a down underquilt to beneath his hammock so his underside stays warm. That’s the one drawback to a hammock- unless you insulate the bottom, you get cold, even in summer.  
I’m disappointed in the performance of my Nemo Hornet 2 person tent. It’s constructed of too flimsy a fabric to stand up to the kind of use I put my gear through. It’s the only tent that I’ve torn the stuff sack while walking (I carry my tent on the outside of my backpack because it is often damp or downright drenched). Even worse, a couple of small tears have graced my tent fly as well, which are likely due to the tear in the stuff sack, which must have snagged on a protruding spruce branch today. Back to LL Bean. Not interested in replacing it.  
I look forward to a cozy night’s sleep under the protection of Nemo tonight. I want to be fair to Nemo. It is not his fault that he sports an ultralight outfit. But he’s headed back to the minor leagues.  

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3 thoughts on “Day 10 East Coast Trail: roaring ocean soundtrack 

  1. Thanks for the details on BI’s hammock setup. I’ve been using an air mattress with my hammock, which both provides enough bottom warmth, at least for summer camping, and levels things out enough to sleep on my side. Slippage was a problem, so I switched to a Big Agnes system, in which the sleeping bag has no bottom insulation, but has a pocket on the underside into which you slide the pad. It’s still too chilly in cold weather, due to contact with the sides of the hammock – I might have to pick up an underquilt to go with it. I’ve also been using a Nemo BugOut tarp with drop-down netting with the hammock – does a nice job of keeping the skeeters out in the season, and provides a sizeable refuge from the bugs and rain.


    1. I used a hammock ( Clark –Jungle) for a couple months on the AT. It was great for my back and shoulders. I used a new 3′ wide building insulation material sheet that a boat builder friend recommended. Regular width pads are inadequate for retain bottom heat.


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