Start: Torbay End:Quidi Vidi
42,839 steps miles = 15.2
Sandra was a great host, and her Sea the Sea B & B was a deal for $98 for two.
Today was a day when we ended up walking longer miles than we planned but still didn’t make it to St. John’s, falling short by a couple of miles.
We did see whales surfacing through the hike -maybe as many as ten. They are feeding on schools of capelin and also squid. We are close enough to hear loud exhalations of co2 through their blow holes on the top of their heads. Their spouts are easily seen, even when they are hundreds of feet away. Binoculars would be good here. BI tried to move shoot video of the whales but we could not make it happen due to glare off the water.
We met a couple of surveyors working along the trail who described the trail ahead of us as punctuated with numerous ups and downs today. True. Much elevations gains, even thought the trail generally ran along the edge of the land mass some 400 to 500 feet about sea level. It was hot, and parchingly dry, especially when hiking in full sunlight, unmoderated by tree shade. Still, there is so much water draining off the wet terrain that I still haven’t had to carry more than a quart.
Hiking here reminds me of hiking in the west. In general, there are long views of what’s ahead and behind, and not the usual green tunnel of foliage that I’m used to in New England. There are zero deciduous trees. The harsh northern climate extends the alpine zone this far south. Much of the walking today reminded me of the highest zones of New Hampshire’s White Mountains.
This could be a post about the ” good, bad, and ugly”- the quality information we are given about the trail. Sometimes it comes at you straight, when you most need it, like the homeowner who came out of his house this morning to point to the right fork in the road. Other times it is downright bogus. One fellow stopped to talk to us near Tableland. He had once lived there. We asked about water ahead and he said there was none and that we should go back to Tableland to get some. Nope. Heading south we crossed two good flowing streams within the first mile. Another time, we asked a young couple for directions and was told the trail continued past a viewpoint and it was it true.
maps.me on my phone saved our asses numerous times today when the trail was lost. It’s a great app, free, and works on the trail without a cell connection. It detected the trail no matter where we walked.
We only made it couple of miles short of St. John’s tonight. St. John’s has the oldest street in North America and is also the oldest city in North America. We had a couple of beers at the very crowed and hot Quidi Vidi Brewery when we called a cab to take us into the St. John’s Hostel where we scored a couple beds in a ” community room” which we shared with two young twenty-something girls on a summer road trip.