Left Bank Meets Nepal

Today is my last day as a perigrino, as I depart Cee and walk just  8 more miles to Finisterre.


 Finisterre is truly the end of the line. It sits on a jutting peninsula in Spain with the broad expanse of the deep blue Atlantic framing the backdrop. 

I have one big problem with being on this side of the Atlantic. I keep forgetting that over here the sun sets over the Atlantic rather than the rises as it does at my home in Lincolnville Maine. I have only been here three weeks, not long enough for me to get reoriented to this new reality.

There was a bit of road walking this morning.  


Despite the light rain and thick fog that came out way today, life still goes on for the rural folk that work the land here.  


Finisterre’s history dates to the Pagan era. 

Brierley’s Camino Finisterre Pilgrim’s Guide lists numerous locations and legends that are associated with points of history here.  He describes the Altar to the Sun Ara Solis and the sacred stones Piedras Santas as ancient initiation and ritual sites. I plan to visit those sites on our day off from hiking tomorrow, but I’m not sitting around at the end of the world.   I only want to hike more.  

The Roman reportedly built a legendary city names Dugio here, a place where legionnaires retired to live out their days. Brierley leans toward flowery mystic language frequently in this book. He waxes on with a suggestion that Finisterre may have even been the actual Elysian Fields.   

Other historians have gone do far to posit that Finisterre was the original and favored location for the burial of Saint James. 

No matter. We have not seen any of the spiritual aspects of Finisterre yet.  That comes tomorrow.

 So far, we have only witnessed a ragtag band of tattered and neon  bedecked Peregrinos limping past below our third floor window here at the best albergue yet,  Cabo da Vila. It’s the sort of place that is magic.  This place holds 52.  It is sold out every night all season, and then the owners take 4 months off. I love being here, now. 

I booked 2 nights’ here, at the recommendation of David Rooney, the Irish Hiking Machine.  I was initially disappointed when Marcia and I were led to two clean bunks, top and bottom, in a room with eight other people. I thought I had reserved a private room. But the friendly owner directed us us to this place and I accepted. It was clean and we need to stay somewhere. I struggled a bit about whether to speak up and risk putting myself into a conflicted relationship at the end of our trip with  or just grin and bear it, as I am typically used to doing.

I decided to go back down to the desk and inquire as to whether there were any options in the building that would leave me with a private room for Marcia and I. The owner opened her reservation book and said that she had one room available  but it had a queen size bed and a bathroom adjacent to the room. We’d pay just an additional €16 for our upgrade.  We quickly moved our backpacks up to a most enjoyable situation, on the third floor, with a homeward view across the Atlantic.  

Here are some representative samples of our day. 

I plan to build one of these outdoor ovens at our camp.

Entering Finisterre

Exploring the Winding Streets

Constant Temptation

Decent wine, price not mismarked

The view from our window

Advertisements

About tjamrog

I'm sixty-seven and live in the Maine woods. I thru-hiked the Appalachian Trail in 2007, the Pacific Crest Trail in 2010, Vermont's Long Trail in 2011, and the Continental Divide Trail in 2013 . I am outdoors every day. I offer guided backpacking trips and classes in Maine, through "Uncle Tom's Guided Adventures".
This entry was posted in hiking, Uncategorized and tagged . Bookmark the permalink.

One Response to Left Bank Meets Nepal

  1. Rockdawg69 says:

    Congrats, I guess. I know how it is to get to the end. Sometimes wishing it could go on for a while longer. Thanks for all the pictures and stories of the trail. Enjoy the last days.
    The sun still rises on this side! LOL!
    Porter

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s