Day 21 May 7
Rest (zero miles) day at Pie town
Record number of hikers were here last: Rambler (from Ambler, Pa), Papa Smurf, Litterbox and Yukon,
Balls and Sunshine, Samurai and Lily,
Steady and Skeeter, plus MeGaTex.
The owner of this hostel, Nita, is an ascending trail legend . She’s done an excellent interview/ conversation with long distance bicycling professional Matthew Lee on the dvd RIDE THE DIVIDE (on Netflix). She lets bikers and hikers stay here. At times, she’s not even in town. She’s a woman who has retained beauty and grace and intelligence in style.
For a donation, I scored a bed, and there are free drinks in the fridge, and frozen meats in the freezer. There are many canned foods to use up, and this place has the best hikers box you can imagine. I enjoyed the pleasures of a new private washroom and shower at the RV park for another donation.
I washed my clothes in the utility tub in the same building. That was a long, wet, tiring story. My clothes were so dirty, I must have wrung out and soaped up and wrung out my shirt fifty times before the water was reasonably close to clear.
Ate like a pig today at the only cafe in town, open from 8-4 daily. Had a piece of blueberry pie with milk while I waited for my delicious burrito. In the afternoon, we went back and I had a huge Chef’s salad, and then then pulled pork sandwich. O, yes, another pie, chocolate cream. No cream. Heavy chocolate heaven.
The feature of the day was MeGaTex helping a local couple move a display case from their house to a room at the side of the Pie-o-neer Cafe. We hopped in the back of a pickup and rode out into the desert where they have lived for the past 10 years. They are totally off the grid, and described themselves as ” freegan”. They had dropped off some ground elk, and fresh greens for our supper tonight. It was the best example of what a lifetime of reading Mother Earth News can do for you.
Before we left, a pile of quartz crystals was spread on the table and each of us was invited to pick one that spoke to us, that felt right in our hands.
“You have to keep it with you all the time”, said Tony.
It was the right decision for us to stay here today. Tomorrow, we launch across the El Malapais for a 4 night, 5 day , 82 mile trek to Grant’s where we will rest up another day. It’s going to be new vistas for the gang.
Patburglar researched a route that puts us near some water caches, and working windmills.
I also want to give a shout out to my wife and hiking partner Auntie Mame, who out together a super intelligent and tasty resupply box here to me in Pie Town.
It’s a place where you can’t buy anything on some weekdays. But where everyone is good to the hikers.