Day 2 at Baxter State Park- Russell Pond

We were up and at ‘em sometime around 6 AM when Team Canada lit up the place and downed huge bowls of Captain Crunch before they headed  up to try and reach Baxter Peak, traverse the Knife Edge, and then hobble back here to Katahdin Stream campground.  Wish I knew how it all played out for them.
What an enjoyable and easy seven mile hike we had today!  We had light rain just at the start, for about two miles, but the rain worked with the colorful leaves to draw our attention to the mottled landscapes that surrounded us. The ground was coated with reddish maple and yellowed birch leaves.  There were many streams to cross, and greasy puncheons to test our Slip and Slide skills.

We stopped for lunch, where I fired up my stove.

Spicy Chorizo!

I was very pleased at the taste and quality of my newly found Campbell’s soup packet, plus there is no can to pack out.  Pat and Marcia are great hiking partners. Pat has a keen eye for wildlife. He spotted this spotted salamander partially hidden by the fallen leaves.

On of two we spotted on the hike

Even Martha didn’t complain much when she slipped, fell, and drenched her butt in a cold puddle.

When we reached Whitten Pond, there was nothing but fog in front of us.

Whitten Pond

No moose sightings here.
We passed three massive boulders left behind by the retreating glaciers some 12,000 years ago.

Big boulder

The biggest one was “house-sized”,  for sure.
Two stream crossings of the Wassatiquoik were deep enough  that we  switched out hiking boots for Tevas and Crocs, and just plough through the rushing waters.

Big Wet on the Wassataquoik

The cold freshness felt good on my feet and lasted a surprisingly long time.
Marcia was impressive on point in moving us along at a steady 2.4 mph clip, despite the rain-lubrication layer covering the ever present bare root and lichen-encrusted granite pathway below.
We reached the Russell Pond Campground by 1:20 PM; a  superb start to day 1 of our Columbus Day Weekend.  It was no longer raining, and we threw our packs down at the weighing station.

Whoa, 42 pounds!

Both Pat’s and my pack tipped the scales at 42 pounds.  How the heck did that happen?

Dock at Russell Pond

At Russell, we were checked in by Brendan, the ranger, who lives near us and has been working here for 21 years. He let us borrow a bow saw and led us to a recently fallen dry maple that provided us with firewood for the bunkhouse. He came over later and visited with us after it started raining again.  It was tough to hear that there was a cache of dry split firewood locked up is a big plywood box on the bunkhouse porch that was being saved for upcoming  winter season. If I had known that there was no firewood for sale here I would  have packed in my axe that is sitting in my car back in the Roaring Brook lot.
Marcia cooked our supper of steak, fresh zucchini, peppers, and tomatoes on top of the wood stove here. I made up a aluminum pie tin filled with no-bake Cherry Cheesecake for dessert.
The other party of four renting out the second 4 bunk sleeping room never showed up so we had the whole bunkhouse to our selves for the rest of the weekend.

Propane lights illuminate the main room

Pretty sweet.

Day 1 at Baxter State Park- Roaring Brook Campground

It’s perfect here right now.  7:20 PM . It’s just Marcia and I sitting inside the dark of the forested night as we reheat our suppers on our trusty Coleman gas stove.

It’s Roaring Freaking Brook and so much a piece of history and power.  I’m amazed that for our combined price of 22 bucks, we’re established  in hiker heaven!
Of course there are minor drawbacks, like us forgetting dressing packets for the Greek salads we picked up at the Milllinocket Hannaford’s.  Dry salad turns tasty when you are hungry and are camping.  We are reheating  two freshly prepared meals from the same store.  I had pork loin and Marcia had salmon, both with two sides. We felt like we made the best choice for supper, better than going to a restaurant, or cooking over a fire tonight.
Sometime around 8:30 PM our insular party was over, when 6 guys rolled in from Moncton,  New Brunswick-  workers at a diaper factory.  Talk about job security!

the diaper boys light up our lives

The Miller Lights started poppin’ and I feared for the worst, but they were a friendly, talkative, and decent bunch of fellows, who all piled into one of the two hiker rooms here stacked like sardines three high.  Through it all, Auntie Mame maintained focus on documenting her adventure.

Cold, hard analysis

Note actual bacon cookies.

It’s supposed to rain tonight and tomorrow morning when we and our friends Pat and Martha pack out and head north, up 7 miles or so to Russell Pond bunkhouse for two nights.

Katahdin’s Knife Edge – Day 2/3

I had a poor night’s sleep in lean-to #5.  The wind was loud, and I was concerned that it would affect our plans.  #5 is rumored to have once encountered wind so ferocious that it once tipped over.  Tenzing took advantage of his own awakening, when he made a 1 AM foray back down to Chimney Pond where he watched the stars, saw a couple shooters, and took this picture of the moon over the ridge.

Moonrise over Ridge -
all photos by John Clark

At 8 AM we signed in with the Ranger and started our arduous ascent of the Cathedral Trail,  a 1-and-3/4 mile strenuous climb up to Baxter Peak ( 5,271’).  The trail ascents 2,300 feet in that distance , a ridiculously steep challenge, and the shortest way to the summit from this campground. I am not sure if there is anything in New England this steep. It’s not even a walk. Better described as a boulder scramble, working the top half of your body as much as your legs. It’s tough!

Uncle Tom negotiating the start of the Cathedral Trail

Once up on the heights, it was difficult for us to recognize where the First Cathedral ended and the Second began.

First Cathedral

I highly recommend wearing full-fingered gloves for this trail.  Tenzing bloodied both his thumbs that morning.

When I reached the top, I preceded six Appalachain Trail thru-hikers who were just arriving- running, and then kissing the iconic summit sign. One shirtless fellow was running BAREfoot to the finish. Baxter Peak is the northern terminus of the 2,200 mile AT.

Tenzing, Uncle Tom, Roy, and Mike Gundel

All four of us summited, and after our obligatory group photo, Tenzing, Mike and I decided to continue over the mile-long Knife Edge.  Roy wisely elected to head back down the Tableland and exit via the Saddle Trail.

The Knife Edge traverses the ridge between Baxter and Pamola Peaks. Katahdin has claimed 19 lives since 1963,  mostly from exposure in bad weather and falls from the Knife Edge. For about 3/10 of a mile the trail is  a mere 3 feet wide, with a 1,500 foot drop-off on either side. Rangers post announcements that the Knife Edge is closed during periods of high wind.  Last year, General Lee, Bill Gifford and I completed it while enshrouded in a cloud, rapidly moving to avoid the rain and thunder that arrived as we reached Pamola.
We took our time today, but moved steadily.

Uncle Tom and Mike traverse Knife Edge

  I do fine with this trail, except for the short drop while descending the cleft known as the Chimney.  One hiker I met told me it is a Class 4 section while headed in our direction, and I have read that hikers have turned back at this point rather than risk a fall. I do not understand why there are multiple steel aids on the rocks along the Hunt Trail ( AT) on the other side of the mountain, and not even one placed here.
I was in the lead today, so I had to get myself down myself.  First, I lowered my day pack to a ledge below me with the aid of my Leki pole, then tossed the poles to the floor of the Chimney. Then I remembered General Lee’s advice last year encouraging me to turn around, face the wall, search with my right hand for a lower hand hold, and then stretch my right leg  waaaay down until I felt it reach a blade of a rock that was the key to completing the move.  Who knows if I will ever pass this way again?  This was my fourth time on the Knife Edge.

The last uphill segment to Pamola

One more steep section to go-  It did not help to watch another hiker scale his way up there ahead of me, very exposed, and scary to me- I remember freaking out on the Cannon Mountain tramway ride as a kid.

After settling our heart rates on top of Pamola (4,919′), we descended the Dudley Trail back to Chimney Pond. No one talks much about this 1-and-1/4 mile trail, originally blazed in 1910 by Leroy Dudley. Now, we’re dropping the 2,000 feet we labored to gain.  I packed away my Leki poles, donned the gloves again, and shifted into survival mode.  Surviving the jumps, leg stretches, and lemon squeeze passages between the thousands of boulders on the way down was my goal.  A few times, the loose crumbled talus under foot caused skids that could have been disastrous.  This was total focus hiking.  I was out of water ( 2 quarts), and eventually gulped down a bracing half quart I collected from a dripping bare root coming out of a emerald patch of moss, close to the end.

Sometime, and somehow, we safely reached Chimney Pond in mid-afternoon, where we signed out with the ranger, and headed over to the 10- person Bunkhouse, and rendezvoused with Roy.  He saved us three lower bunks in one of the two sleeping areas.  The place had a few windows, but was very dark within.  Two gas lights were on the walls in the group room, and they were turned on well before it was dark out.
I loved my supper- a MRE ( military meal ready to eat).  That suspicious-looking Escalloped Potatoes and Ham, went down just fine with the addition of a tiny bottle of Tabasco sauce, crackers, jelly, fruit drink, applesauce, hot cocoa, and chocolate covered brownie.
Our bunkhouse mates were a young couple from Worcester, MA and three older guys from Dexter who were headed up the Saddle Trail tomorrow. The woman from Worcester had the most amazing MassHole accent I ever heard.  She was too freaked out to even complete that Saddle Trail up. I trust the Dexter trio will have better time of it tomorrow.

John Clark’s Knife Edge photo album here.

Top 5 Maine hikes

From the View From the Top list, forwarded by Clarkie:
Tomcat’s top 5 Maine hikes.

1. Katahdin Loop from Roaring Brook-over Knife Edge-down Hamlin Ridge

Knife Edge Ahead

The Knife Edge goes without saying. Long periods of alpine scenery unlike anything else in the east with very few people taking the Hamlin Ridge. 11-13 miles depending on route to beginning of Knife Edge

2. Acadia Traverse Starting with a Precipice climb over Dorr, Cadillac, Pemetic, Bubbles, Penobscot, Sargent, Bald, Gilmore, and Parkman. Exact route can vary slightly. Views of the ocean from every peak imbedded in the mountains of Acadia. They aren’t that tall but after this 14+ miles you will ache like most 14 milers anywhere else in NE. The continuous up and down is worse than any 4000 footer. Go after September and have most areas to yourself, even crowded Cadillac.

3. Traveler Loop 11+ miles of alpine scenery and awesome views to Katahdin. Best of all hardly anyone uses this lonely loop in the northern end of Baxter. If you never been, forget about 4000 footers for a day and visit this gem. You won’t be let down on a Prominence 50 Peak that seldom goes below treeline for the duration.

4. Bigelow Range Climb AT or Horn’s Pond Trail and hit four peaks including West and Avery’s Alpine summits. Descend Fire Warden’s Trail for a roughly 14 mile loop with several overnight options. Grey jays enjoy the peaks. In winter see snowy Mt Washington and Katahdin in opposite directions from the two higher peaks. Can get crowded but it is a beauty.

5. Grafton Loop Trail A nearly 40 mile backpacking loop with numerous gorgeous vistas. Puzzle Mtn, Lightning Ledge, and best of all Baldpate on the east. Old Speck’s tower takes in awesome views expecially a unique look into Mahoosic Notch and into the Presis. Sunday River White Cap is a quiet hidden alpine peak with great views. Numerous campsites make for many options overnighting. Best of all, there isn’t much traffic apart from the section coinciding with the AT.
Do you agree ?

I haven’t done #2 but sure want to give it a shot.

The reason the Knife Edge picture is the only one posted, is that I’ll be up on there this Thurs.

Stay Tuned!

Heading up to Mt. Abraham

Had planned to go up today, but rain, within thunderstorms are socking us hard here in Maine right now. It’s going to be clear and sunny tomorrow with early morning temps in the 40′s following the cold front, so that’s the new plan. Abraham is totally new ground for me- one of the few 4,000 footers in New England that I have not yet hiked.
Here’s 4 minutes of footage of the hike, with Alisin of One-Minute Hike fame! She completed her hike to the summit on Aug. 7.

Chilling at Camp

I The sound of fall is already here-acorns bouncing off the roof and the deck here overlooking Hobbes Pond in Hope.

We’re ready to take out a couple of Keowees for a paddle down by the cove this morning, checking for turtles and herons.

I have already waked 5 miles up and back from Pushaw’s Trading Post, where I bought the Sunday paper.

When I came back, I was drenched from the humidity, but this time I enjoyed my first ever hot shower from the outdoor “rinsing station” that was one of several recent additions to our deal here.

A great start to a Sunday just a short bit away from home.

Stuck in the mud? Got blisters? Thank the Appalachian Trail — Bangor Daily News — BDN Maine

Today marks the 75th anniversary of the completion of the AT. The Bangor Daily News leads off today’s Editorial page with the following:

Stuck in the mud? Got blisters? Thank the Appalachian Trail — Bangor Daily News — BDN Maine.

Even though it is still 100% humidity outside and I’m sweating while eating breakfast, I decided to join my hiking buddy Guthook and take a hike today while we reminisce and enjoy the most accessible sport in the world – hiking.

Guthook and I completed our own thru hikes of the AT in 2007. Here’s my treasured summit shot, from September 16, 2007.

MeGaTex plus more make it !

Walking, riding, walking, riding

Actually, Mame and I also rode 5 miles yesterday afternoon, so I experienced a Trifecta of exercise. Still shedding the extra pounds from April’s Mexican/ Barbeque test in Austin.
We had the best weekend here in Maine. June right now is sweet!

Ragged Mountain excels in Mountain Biking options

Check the steep shoulders at the start and end of this elevation profile of yesterday’s bike ride and realize that it takes place up and down a mountain. The Camden (ME) Ragged Mountain/ Snow Bowl is busting out with new trails that my friend Craig pointed out to me yesterday. We rode for two hours on what could be the finest weather of the summer so far- low humidity, cool temps, and relatively dry conditions. I loved the new start out of the parking lot that went over to the far right ski run. It wove its way up to the first plateau in a twisting, but more switch-backed manner, taking better advantage of the terrain.
I have been discouraged recently about my lack of fitness on some of these intense rides, but that was all put to rest on this ride. Riding the Pugsley, I had my best day ever at the Bowl. I felt invincible!
Once up onto the big flat, we rode the new trail out past Massey Falls, over to Chris’ Trail, down the Abyss, up over and down Jason’s Trail, back over to the start of World Cup, then along a whole new section of downhill merging back onto lower World Cup and out.

Looking forward to pamphlets or maps of all the excellent trails that are gracing this gem of a biking park.

Shout outs to John Anders who is a key shaker and mover in expanding the recreational bicycling ( and hiking) opportunities in the Midcoast area and to Snow Bowl director Jeff Kueller for his management decisions. I also thank all the volunteers who are working hard to build and maintain these trails.
Next up: Ragged Mtn Fat Tire Festival , the weekend of July 14-15.

East Coast Hiking

The Need to Hike struck less that 24 hours after returning to Maine from Montana. Under threat of rain/ thunderstorms I joined my friend Frank in a 5 mile hike through Camden Hill State Park this afternoon. The peace, and deep connection to the land easily overcame the sodden, rain- soaked trail, as we both slipped and slid our way over the slippery rocks, roots, and mud pits. The freshness of the green was enchanting. Half way though the hike thunder began, leading to rain, accompanied by lightening. We pypassed the trip up to Maiden’s cliff, wisely as the flashes of power we’re noting to challenge on those exposed ledges. I’m thinking of my neighbor and friend Andy Hazen on his first day on the Tour Divide, after he raced 87 miles up and around the Canadian Rockies today. What a day he’s had after a lifetime of preparation!